Applying the compost preparations: the six manure preparations in practice
How to put the six compost preparations 502–507 correctly into compost, manure and slurry: timing, the pattern of holes, quantities and the most common mistakes — a compact guide for practice.
The six compost preparations (502–507) only unfold their effect when applied correctly — put in wrongly or too late, the effort is wasted. This guide sums up how to put yarrow (502), chamomile (503), stinging nettle (504), oak bark (505), dandelion (506) and valerian (507) into compost, manure and slurry. What the preparations are and how they work together is covered in the overview of compost preparations; this is about practice.
The right time
The preparations go into the organic matter as early as possible — ideally when the compost heap or manure pile is built, when the material is well mixed and evenly moist. Then they accompany the hot phase of decomposition from the start. If the heap is turned later, the preparations are put in again. A first application that comes too late gives away the most effective phase.
Pattern of holes and order
The five solid preparations (502–506) are not scattered but placed deep into the heap at individual points. To do this, use a stick to make evenly spaced holes in the pile and put one preparation into each. Stinging nettle (504) goes in the middle, the others around it — on long piles the pattern is repeated. The liquid valerian (507) comes last: diluted, it is poured or sprayed over the surface and, so to speak, closes the set.
It is important that the preparations stay moist. Take them out of storage only shortly before use and wrap the small portions in a handful of moist, mature compost or soil before they go into the hole. Dry preparations, or ones that have sweated in plastic film, lose their effect.
Quantities
In biodynamic practice one set — a small portion of each of the five solid preparations plus one dose of valerian — is enough for about ten cubic metres of solid manure, correspondingly more for slurry and liquid manure. The quantities are deliberately small: it is not about mass but about the impulse. More preparation brings no extra benefit. For a small garden compost heap a fraction of a set is accordingly enough.
Note: exact figures in grams and millilitres vary with the source and the form in which the preparations are supplied. The orders of magnitude given here (one set for about 10 m³) follow common practice after Wistinghausen; for exact quantities, use the information from your supplier or the Demeter requirements.
Common mistakes
The three most common are: putting them in too late (after the hot phase), letting the preparations dry out, and forgetting the valerian, which is what makes the set complete. Scattering them over the surface instead of using targeted holes also weakens the effect, because the preparations belong at specific points in the living core of the decomposing heap.
For areas that receive neither manure nor compost, the compost preparations reach the land by another route: as barrel compost, stirred and sprayed.
Frequently asked questions
When are the compost preparations put in?
Preferably when the heap is built, when the material is moist and well mixed; repeat after turning.
Are all six used together?
Yes. The five solid preparations go together into holes, the liquid valerian over the surface — they work as an ensemble.
How much preparation does a heap need?
One set is enough for about ten cubic metres of solid manure. The quantities are small; more brings no advantage.